When you have a team that created Hibiscus – a 2* Michelin restaurant which successfully moved from Shropshire to London expectations are bound to be high. The Fox and Grapes until recently was a local pub. After a four-month refit it has been transformed into a fantastic bright, busy restaurant and bar. Very assured staff and full of customers it seems like it has been there forever. I think this is because of the excellent reputation of brothers Claude and Cedric Bosi the chef and manager respectively. The food is an ambitious mixture of high-end classics and the unusual. Some worked more successfully than others. I didn’t particularly enjoy the Leek and Potato Soup (£6) as it was strangely bitter and too runny for my liking. We had a Sunday menu, which is a cut down of the weekday variety (which was a shame as I really wanted to try the Herefordshire Snail Lasagne!) The highs for me were Confit of Lamb Shoulder with Fresh Mint and Chilli, which was simply outstanding. A pure indulgence of lush smooth rich lamb that just fell apart when touched with a fork. The mild Chilli enhanced this wonderfully and left a tasty glow in the mouth. At £14.50 with side vegetables I thought this was superb. Hake with a Beer Batter, Chips and Mushy peas was very fresh and had the lightest of batters that gave it a dignity never afforded by something wrapped in newspaper. Provided on a plate for £13.50. My Vanilla and Pear Junket with Cinnamon Shortbread (£6) was very appealing, the texture of the shortbread was a perfect foil to the soft sweet velvety Junket. But the absolute star was a bar snack – A Scotch Egg no less. Just simply sublime – I could have eaten half a dozen of these gorgeous light crispy concoctions. A soft egg with spiced outer and bread crumbs that actually crunched in my mouth. Go to The Fox and Grapes it’s good and I think it will only get better.
9 Camp Road
Wimbledon Common
London SW19 4UN
020 8619 1300
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