The real wow factor of the dinning space is the enormous glazed roof, which can open up to reveal the heavens. Under which sits a long and very comfortable banquette. The space is very bright and fresh. At weekends they have a brunch menu all day long where families congregate and eat such staples as Eggs Benedict or Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Salmon from £5.95, you can strap your little ones in one of their high chair seats and relax and wonder up at the sky. Or indeed wonder at the food, as it is rather good.
We indulged in a few bar snacks – a crisp light Scotch Egg and large Olives then got going on fresh Crab Linguini with Chilli, Garlic and Parsley, the pasta was ‘to the tooth’, Crab was light and the chilli very subtle – a good combination. Some Asparagus with gorgeous Morels in a light cream and a crispy Egg was good but I would question serving these ingredients at the end of season. These starters began at £8.50. The staff were very attentive, without being intrusive, oh and did I mention that they kept on offering us bread, beautiful bread which is made in house. I couldn’t resist ordering a Jack O’Shea Angus Rib Eye steak. Jack’s meat is very good and as if proof were needed he is Heston Blumenthal’s butcher of choice. It was juicy, succulent and arrived with a Mustard and Peppercorn Butter on top, perfect. The Admirals Cod, Tomatoes, Mushrooms and Herb Crust, is I suppose a house special and proved worthy, again fresh and full of flavour with nothing dominating. We also ate superb chunky hand-cut chips. These mains started at £15.50. Though the Steak was £26. A few glasses of a very palatable Malbec later and it was time for something else.
Baked Cheese Cake is a fondness of mine that does me no good at all – so I thought I’d try that. Thank goodness the kitchen are able to bake a light Cheese Cake – very simple and almost fluffy inside. Also on our table were some delicious Marinated English Strawberries – these had spent some time in Balsamic Vinegar and I suspect a bit of sugar. They were good and fresh and we could have eaten more. An Apple and Blackberry Crumble, was eaten completely by my wife but for me it was a bit oaty – maybe I’m a purist. Puddings were all priced at £5.75.
The whole lunch was served with a casual aplomb that can only come from a restaurant that knows what it’s doing with the food you are about to eat. The only drawback was something not under their control – the weather. It rained throughout our lunch. But, just as the last plates were cleared a ray of sunshine appeared and “as if by magic” the giant glass roof opened just a little, allowing us a glimpse of how, The Admiral Codington may fair, if only the weather was better in Mayfair.
17 Mossop Street
London SW3 2LY
Tel: 020 7581 0005