Goat
333 Fulham Road
London
SW10 9QL
Tel: 020 7352 1384
Goat is a new hybrid eatery in the Fulham Road. Occupying the site of the 350 year-old The Goat in Boots pub. As you enter it still feels like a pub and you can just drink here but what intrigued me was the multi space approach taken by its owners Katia and Steve Manktelow along with Tim Cunliffe as an investor. It is a warren of twists and turns that make it great fun to explore. In the lower section known as ‘The Crypt’ they offer private hire, which has been seized upon by the mothers with young children to hold birthday parties. It is a safe friendly space and they are willing to customize the day for you with food and drinks etc.
On the ground level is the restaurant with a New York Italian strain running through it. It is a post modernist industrial space with more than a hint of its past. Yes it is eclectic but in a manageable way. Upstairs is a bar set on two levels that has a less industrial feel, there is wood paneling, an atrium with a giant chandelier hanging down it and comfy leather chairs and banquettes. The cocktails here are outstanding. Steve has a passion for old school mixology and has recruited some talented staff. I met Nazareth Navarro who explained “how you have to keep on creating, nothing stays still” He has a great respect for the classics as well, he made me a ‘Jackson’ consisting of; Woodford reserve Bourbon, orange, Angostura bitters, Absinthe and cherry bites all swishing around in ice. Absolute heaven, even M who doesn’t drink was seduced by the brilliant orange aroma bursting out of the glass, a real winner and I must confess to having more than one!
The food at Goat is the sort of food that excites me. Nothing flashy is going on here, the kitchen is open and you can see the pace they work at. Good ingredients dealt with in a simple way. Asparagus with a poached egg and hollandaise is a classic combination this was the last week of the season so it seemed right to have some. It was perfectly cooked and tasted great. M opted for that hard to find Italian cheese Burrata, which came with roasted cherry tomatoes. This wonderful cheese was firm on the outside and lovely and gooey on the inside, another winner.
This is an operation of many parts, we were shown a little secret of Goat not known to many. They have their own ‘speakeasy’ a hidden room set aside exclusively for members of the ‘Chelsea Prayer Room’. An exclusive set of drinkers who like the good things in life. You can’t ask to become a member you are invited to join if they feel you share the same ethos as fellow members. It really is a special space, cosy and candle lit and of course a cocktail bar waiting to take your order.
The main courses appeared and I was delighted to find truffle playing a large part on the menu. M had grilled monkfish and I had a hanger steak, which was fabulous, very good quality meat and perfectly cooked. The sides had the truffle magic I so like, mash – truffled, macaroni cheese – truffled and polenta fries – truffled. Spinach had a look in but wasn’t truffled. The macaroni was probably the most surprising, as I wasn’t sure if it would work, but it did. The subtle use of truffle oil was the key, no overpowering the dish. The mash is an old friend of truffle so had that lovely creamy marriage. The polenta was the least successful, I’m not sure that it works with truffle, as it has no taste of its own there was nothing to work with.
With its many hats the bar upstairs on certain nights has a DJ operating from an old pulpit it is quite a religious experience. I can see the cult of Goat really taking off here. There really is something for everyone in the daytime it has more of a café feel to it, yummy mummies and hot deskers alike going about their daily business. They even run a Goat’s Kid Club on Sundays, time for you to relax while the children are looked after.
Desserts are straightforward, M’s chocolate and caramel foam was enjoyable but she didn’t finish, as it was a touch too sweet. I had the cheese board, which had a good variety of Italian cheeses mostly hard, a bit of texture would have improved it. But guess what? One had truffle in it. It was if they knew I was coming.
So this new multi space hybrid youngster is a welcome addition to the Fulham Road scene. It is great for families in the day as a venue for something special or just to meet with other parents and comes alive in the evening on various levels, so I suggest you welcome this new ‘kid’ on the block and check out Goat. People will be talking about this place quite soon.
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